Dondurma: The Stretchy, Chewy Ice Cream That Never Drips
In the world of frozen desserts, not all ice cream is created equal. From the rich and creamy American-style to the slow-churned Italian gelato and the thick Indian kulfi, each variety has its unique characteristics. But in Turkey, Maraş dondurma stands out as a true marvel. This stretchy, almost melt-proof ice cream is a testament to the country's culinary ingenuity and the power of nature's ingredients.
What sets dondurma apart is its key ingredient: salep, an orchid-based flour produced exclusively in Turkey. This rare ingredient, derived from the Dactylorhiza romana orchid, is a protected species due to overharvesting. The orchid's resin, combined with milk and beet sugar, gives dondurma its remarkable resilience and elasticity. It's like taffy that never drips, a quality that has made it a local favorite and a hidden gem for travelers.
The art of making dondurma is a spectacle in itself. Street vendors in tourist hubs like Istanbul's İstiklal Avenue showcase their skills, pounding and kneading the ice cream with metal rods, creating a mesmerizing dance of flavors. But for the ultimate dondurma experience, one must venture beyond the street carts. Serez Gurme Dondurma, a gourmet ice cream chain, offers a taste of true authenticity.
Serdar Kemahlı, the founder, discovered his passion for dondurma in his mid-40s. He was captivated by the vibrant colors and flavors of artisanal ice cream, a stark contrast to the limited options of his childhood. This epiphany led him to create a frozen dessert that was both delicious and sustainable. At his shop in Caddebostan, the menu boasts a variety of natural, raw flavors, from pistachio to Bodrum mandarin, each served at a warmer temperature to enhance the intensity of the taste.
The secret lies in glucomannan, a molecule found in salep. This emulsifier and thickener gives dondurma its signature texture, allowing it to be stretched and sliced effortlessly. However, the demand for salep has led to overharvesting, pushing the orchid to the brink of extinction. Kemahlı emphasizes the importance of sustainable cultivation and the protection of the wild orchid to preserve the essence of dondurma.
Despite its local fame, dondurma remains largely unknown outside Turkey. The authentic experience can only be had within the country, making it a must-try for travelers seeking unique culinary adventures. As TasteAtlas declared dondurma the best frozen dessert in 2025, it's a treat that deserves global recognition, offering a delightful blend of texture, flavor, and cultural heritage.
